Monday, August 9, 2010

Defining Your Classic Car Restoration


I am sure we all enjoy viewing a classic motor car that has been restored, but what is a classic car? I guess it is a bit like defining an elephant, I struggle to define it, but I know one when I see one.

Yes it all becomes a bit fuzzy when we have to make a definition. One website I visited mentions that it must be a 'lady of a certain age'! I guess the lady bit is referring to the vehicle (apologies to the ladies).

If you do your research you can find some characteristics that are common when people are seeking to define a classic car. We must remember of course that this is only one of the many starting points to classic motor car restoration.

If you are intending to show the vehicle then it of course plays much more importance, whereas if you are undertaking a restoration just for your own personal satisfaction then you can define your classic car just as you wish.

Some of the more common characteristics we find floating around the net, for defining a classic motor vehicle, are:

· It should be built before 1948

· Asking price is in the order of ten to one hundred times the original price of the car

· Distinctive styling, innovative and attractive

· Seeking to have historic preservation of the original

· Innovative or trend setting engineering

· Value or desirability

· Supporting documentation, such as maintenance records and sales contracts

Of course the above list is not exhaustive and you can find other characteristics, but the above list is a reasonable starting point. The Classic Car Club of America (CCCA) is an excellent association for us that are enthused with classic cars and their restoration.

And of course the USA has a wonderful history of classic cars to choose from, being one of the founders of the development of the modern mass produced motor vehicle. Henry Ford and the model T are legendary.

To define your classic motor car you need to first sit down and consider the purpose of your classic car restoration (or purchase). From this you can work out if you need to satisfy your criteria or someone else's.

Classic Old Cars - Something That is Hardly Available


The golden cars of the past years have always attracted the car fanatics to the time of antique, vintage as well as limited edition car models. In such an advanced time with the lots of advancements in the cars, it is really hard to find somebody that is driving a limited edition car in the current scenario. The internet medium is such a big resource to find the thousands of cheapest and the best cars of the golden time without going out of your home. And with the online auction, you can look at the designs of the cars with its detailed features without visiting the sale. There are different car communities on the internet that provides the latest updated information on the sales of antique cars, offers of the old cars, car accessories and engines.

The car community on the internet does have varied categories that include classic trucks, street rods and various other car accessories and small parts. There are lots of transactions happening to buy and sell the cars on the internet they either does not charge any transaction charge or charge minor transaction charges which is quite negligible. The websites are also available with the lots of customized searches that allows you to search for the cars and accessories of the models, makes and years which you might be looking for. You can sell or buy as many numbers of cars and trucks as you want to and there is no limitation on it.

There are number of categories available on the website according to the vehicle and accessory types. The online websites contain the different categories like antique models, street rods, classic trucks, small spare parts and different accessories. Apart from internet, there many states in the United States that offers the different types of car shows where you can display your model of car that you want to sell or you can also search for the model of your choice to buy. Let us look at the 10 top states that arrange the car sale events. The states are Illinois, Texas, Missouri, Indiana, California, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Washington and Michigan. In the events of all these state, millions of people visit the fairs to show case their antique car models for sale and also to check out the good old car models to purchase them.

Here are some details about the widely searched old cars on the internet. It states that the widely popular antique car model that is traded for the maximum number of times is Chevrolet Caprice model of 1966, Chrysler New Yorker model of 1966, Plymouth Fury of 1960 and Chevrolet Nova model of 1960.

The inventory provided with the detailed information on the intern can help you to look out for the best suited car for you need. There is lots of online treasure available. The only thing you need to buy or sale an antique old car is to have a right opportunity at the right time. I am sure, you would drive a limited edition car on a modern day road.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

The Basics of Classic Car Maintenance - Fluids

As a start we will consider petrol and diesel, apart from the obvious that you have enough for your journey it is worth checking the whole fuel system at least once a year, diesel because it has a habit of finding paths and holes that most other fluids don't and petrol because if it does leak, a hot surface or spark can cause an explosion, I know I have been there with leaky carburettors dripping onto the exhaust pipe.

First check the fuel tank, invariably in old cars it is made from pressed steel and is subject to corrosion especially where straps or fixings are. Give it a good look over for any bubbles or spots that look damp/dark and check to see if the fuel gauge moves much at regular intervals when the car is parked up. Next check the pipework, again many cars had steel pipes with later replacements being copper or plastic (plastic being particularly vulnerable from hot exhaust pipes as many manufactures ran the two pipes close to each other!)

Hopefully someone will have fitted a petrol filter under the bonnet to stop any debris or rust reaching and blocking the carburettors. Looking at this will help to indicate any corrosion from the tank and pipework that maybe present, so replace it following any repairs to these to give you a clean slate. For diesels the fuel filter will not be transparent but is likely to resemble an oil filter.

Also check the fuel pump for operation (easier if it is electric) by connecting an alternative outlet hose to a petrol can, caution here as you are combining electricity and flammable vapour, and see that the pump keeps running with the ignition on.

And finally with the ignition on/or engine started and switched off check the carburettor(s) for any damp/dark patches particularly around where the fuel pipes join the carbs. Alternatively check the injector pump and interconnecting pipework to and from the injectors on the cylinder head.

As standard advice it is always essential to check the cooling water level but there are other things to check for. It is worth noting that it is not so important if you over fill the cooling system as the water level should adjust itself and find a natural level. While you have the radiator or filler cap off the car it is worth considering the colour. Good clean cooling water should appear slightly green or blue from the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor.

If the water is brown this means that there is corrosion or rust in the system, a certain amount is to be expected as this happens as a matter of course. If the water is very cloudy or you are unsure it may be worth draining the water, flushing it through and refilling with new water and anti-freeze. This should be checked again after a few days or 50 miles or so to see if the problem has been rectified.

If the water has an oily sheen or rainbow this should be investigated further as it may be bad news. Sometimes it is just the natural oils from the various components that leach out when they are new, such as lubricants that are used in pumps or from sealants if used. However it maybe a signal that there is a more serious problem and the engine lubricating oil is getting into the cooling system and a major engine failure may not be too far away, hopefully your engine oil checks should help indicate this.

It is recommended that cooling water be changed yearly but I have found very couple of years is usually adequate due to the low mileage my classic cars do.

Engine lubricating oil is again essential to the running of the engine. It is important with this to make sure there is neither too much or too little. If there is too little the engine can get dry become damaged and even seize, if too much the oil can bubble and build up back pressure in the lower parts of the engine & eventually damage the crank shaft and pistons. For this reason it is very important that you make sure you have the right dipstick in your engine, even engines of the same type can have different dipsticks as they can vary in how they are constructed or how the oil circulates, check with your local club or specialist classic car garage.

Also if possible check that the right oil has been used as older engines or fast running engines require different thickness of oils and different care to modern engines.

Typical places for oil leaks on classic cars are
• The sump plug (bottom of the engine), if worn, improperly tightened or the copper washer on the plus has hardened over time. Sometimes the gasket will leak, usually symptoms of a bigger fault and sometimes the sump can be cracked, especially with cast steel or aluminum sumps.
• The rocker cover, if the gasket has hardened (often cork in older cars), over tightened or not fitted correctly. These leaks are usually straightforward to fix by fitting a new gasket.
• The rear end of the crankshaft (where the flywheel and clutch are fixed) because of worn seals (and it has to be said usually poor design from the manufacturers). This leak is very common do not panic unless you are losing a lot of oil or you are also having clutch trouble. The oil from this leak is handy for coating the underside of your car preventing rust, but you should aim to have the leak fixed.
• Oil filter, because of poor fitting, tired gaskets or just rattling loose. Again these leaks are straight forward to fix.

If your engine is leaking oil from other places it probably is not good news so check it out with a specialist. Another item relating to oil worth regular changes is the oil filler cap as these are often vented and contain wire mesh filters that can get dirty and allow over pressurisation of the oil system.

Things to look for in engine oil:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it appears very black, again time for a change of oil
• If it has lumps, a flush and oil change should be done as a minimum
• If it has a lot of white/brown goo or 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of a head gasket failure which allows the cooling water into the oil thus creating the 'mayonnaise'. Sometimes though small amounts of this can be formed through condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.

Oil should be changed at the mileage intervals advised by the manufacturer, though if you are doing less miles each year then yearly is recommended. I usually change the filter every other oil change as well because I don't always know the service history of the engine from the past so there may be some debris from wear in the oil system.

Whilst on oils I will next go through gearbox lubricating oil including rear axle oil for rear wheel drive cars. This should not often require replacing or topping up unless you have a leak, and leaks on rear axles are very common although not usually big enough to concern you too much. Many classic cars provide additional access to reach filler plugs for gearboxes and axles to which the owners' manuals can point but may require the lifting of carpets and/or the rear seat. Another advantage is in some post war classic cars is that some gearboxes also have their own dipsticks, a feature that disappeared as gearboxes became more reliable.

Though the oils do not normally need regular changing it is always worth an annual level check or when you suspect a leak or gain a noise. It should be noted that differential whine from the rear axle is quite common and is often just wear and tear rather than lack of lubrication.

Certainly for the rear axle you may need a specialist sump plug spanner. Like the engine the gearbox and axle may require different oils depending on their age. Some older gearboxes are happy with engine oil and later gearboxes use specialist gear oil, also often used in hotter climates.

The contents of the oil are more difficult to check here especially with the available light but you can look for the following:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it has a lot white 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.
You may feel more comfortable changing the oil in any case so you know what you are starting with.

Brake fluid - now obviously you want to make sure you have enough of this so that you can stop when you need to but what many people miss is that brake fluid can degrade and separate causing corrosion to the brake components and loss of force at the wheels when you push the brake pedal.

It is well worth checking the brake fluid level on a 3 monthly basis to see that it has not changed much, apart from a level drop being a sign of worn brake pads/shoes a big level drop could be a sign of a leak. A level drop should be avoided because of the aforementioned but also because you may allow air into the system which reduces the effectiveness of the brakes as air compresses more readily than brake fluid.

When bleeding brakes the following things should be looked for:
• Bubbles, could be a sign of a leak that is allowing air in as well as fluid out
• Black colour, sign of various components corroding, particularly steel pipes
• Bits, again a sign of corrosion

When any of these occur it is advisable to check all the components and replace those identified as faulty. It is also worth keeping the bleeding process going until the defect(s) disappear as the contaminated brake fluid may still be in the retained parts.

Another problem with braking components is external corrosion which can wear pipes and make them leak or rust together which will require all the corroded components to be replaced. Here a bit of copper grease may keep it at bay, and if you have them try to maintain the rubber/plastic dirt caps on bleed nipples.

One of the weakest points on braking systems are the flexible hoses that connect the wheel brakes to allow suspension movement. Apart from perishing and splitting these can also suffer from laminating which makes the walls weaker and prone to expanding under pressure, therefore the force from the brake pedal gets used up in the pipes rather than the wheel cylinders or callipers. Often pipes with external metal braiding are available which reduces this risk, but these are only good whilst they are clean and not corroded.

Although the list above gives a general overview it should be enough to get you started and let you gain confidence carrying out your own maintenance and with time tackle more involved tasks replacing parts of the car.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

How to Break a Car Window and Cut a Jammed Seat Belt in an Emergency


Each year more than 10,000 people are involved in water immersion accidents. Over 300 of them die a terrifying death trapped in their car. Thousands more loose their lives in dry land accidents when their seat belts jam, doors and windows are stuck, smoke and flames fill the car and they have no way out.

Most people don't know that car windows are extremely difficult to break. They are made to withstand high impacts during a car accident. But that same protection can turn your car into a death trap.

An Inexpensive Auto Escape Tool Could Save Your Life!

There are a few high quality auto escape devises available to both consumers and professionals that can easily break a tempered glass car window and cut a jammed seat belt. Some of these ingenious tools are so small they can fit on your key chain. And they only cost about $10.00. That's cheap life insurance!

One car emergency tool that can fit on your key chain is a spring-loaded punch that is also equipped with a safety blade to cut seat belts. Some high quality key chain automotive escape device available on-line include the ResQMe and the Houdini.

So how does it shatter a tempered glass car window so effectively? The body of the tool houses a spring loaded window punch. When you press the bottom cylinder against a corner of your side or rear car window it loads the spring and then releases it slamming the hardened steel tip of the punch against the glass.

Here's How To Test A Key Chain Emergency Car Escape Punch

Here is a simple way to test a key chain escape punch without leaving the comfort of your home and... without breaking a car window. Place the bottom cylinder (located at the bottom of the tool) on an old magazine, book or pad of paper. Then press down on it until you hear a "click". The click is the sound of the punch releasing.

Now look at the surface of the magazine, book or pad that you just used for your test. It should have a small impression in it as if someone tapped it with a nail. A good quality key chain car escape device will instantly reset itself so it is immediately ready to be used again. If you press a key chain auto escape tool against a side or rear car window in this manner it will shatter it.

A word of caution: Do not test a car escape emergency tool against a hard surface like metal or stone as this can dull the tip and render it useless in an emergency.

Where To Use Your Auto Escape Tool

If an emergency ever does arise you should use an car escape tool or punch close to a corner of a side or rear window. The corner is more rigid and the window will break more easily in this area. If the window doesn't break on the first attempt, a second try will usually do the trick.

Never attempt to break a front car windshield. A windshield is made of laminated glass and it requires a professional extrication tool to break it.

How To Cut A Seat Belt With Your Auto Escape Tool

But what if your seat belt becomes jammed due to the impact of a crash? Or the car is upside down and your body pressure prevents the buckle from releasing.

Almost all auto escape tools now incorporate a razor sharp blade that is safely guarded to protect you from personal injury. Most key chain auto escape tools have a clip that covers the blade. Simply pull the protective clip or cover off to expose the blade.

Once the clip is removed (which takes a fraction of a second) slip the blade guard over your seat belt and pull. It will cut through in just a few "pulls". Even with the clip removed there is little danger of cutting yourself because most good quality auto escape tools have a blade that is well guarded leaving just enough room for a seat belt.

"Peace of Mind" Insurance

Keeping a auto escape tool on your key chain, in your purse or attached to your sun visor is very inexpensive insurance against a catastrophe

Friday, August 6, 2010

GM's ugliest car ever


GM's ugliest car ever still has its fans

Are you one of those people who love stray dogs, who search remnant bins at department stores, who eat beets when no one else will? If so, perhaps you should be driving a used Pontiac Aztek.

The Pontiac Aztek remains the poster child for how bad General Motors had become. It is an example of how focus groups, rather than good common sense, can dominate a process. No one inside GM every apparently had the courage to say what they really thought about this disaster until the production decision had been given the go-ahead. Auto writers gasp when it was introduced at an auto show.

"That thing is butt-ugly!" my neighbor screamed, loud enough for all of Brooklyn to hear when I rolled up my block on a beautiful, sunny Tuesday in 2001, navigating a rain-slicker-yellow Aztek test driver. The comment was only the first of dozens of raspberries and guffaws I absorbed over a week driving the Aztek in and around New York City. The next came from my own brother: "That's the Ernest Borgnine of SUVs." GM might as well have hung a "Kick me!" sign on the Aztek's rear bumper.

I wasn't crazy about the Aztek, either, but my complaints weren't about its looks. "The inside reminds me of an economy hotel," I wrote in the New York Daily News. "Everything is clean but ever-so-cheap; I half expected a mass-produced painting to be bolted to a door."

Max says when the car initially didn't sell, GM changed the crossover's outside gray plastic cladding to body color and added a spoiler to the rear hatch just a year later. It also dropped the price by $1,450. Though GM had projected it would sell 75,000 Azteks each year, it later revised that number to 50,000. The best year for sales saw only 27,793 sold in 2002. The cladding was dropped by 2005, as seen in the phot above, before the model was killed. To this day, it still has its fans:

"I've had my Red 2001 Aztek since '03, and I drive it every single day," says corporate project manager Ken Rhyno, who runs a 1,700-plus member Aztek Fan Club from his home in Port Elgin, Ontario, Canada. "I still get cracks from people, but the car runs great, gets up to 30 miles to the gallon and the amount of stuff you can haul in it is fantastic. People have got to understand it's not a Corvette. Its looks are not the point."

Rhyno loves his Aztek so much that he bought Aztekfanclub.com in 2006. "I was a member of the club and then the original owner turned it over to me," he says. "The last rally we had was in 2008, in Ohio. About 30 Azteks showed up from all over the country. We had people come up from as far away as Texas."

Musician Lenny Lee told AOL Autos, "I've got a 2003 Aztek and can't say a bad thing about it, despite the ridiculous-looking rear end. I bought it from a relative in '03 who liked it but wanted the same vehicle with 4-wheel-drive and a tow package. Rather than taking a beating on a trade-in, he sold it to me with 2,000 miles for fourteen grand. I couldn't turn down the price."

Lee says he hasn't taken his Aztek camping, doesn't own the tent accessory and doesn't pay attention to mileage.

"Let's just say it can get out of its own way," the Dutchess, New York resident says. "It thrives on neglect. The odometer just passed 200,000 and virtually nothing has gone wrong with it. I'd never intended to keep it this long, but it's been so dependable and still runs fine and the stereo system sounds good. I just drive it. I figure I'll let her come in for a smooth landing when she's ready."

"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder," says Rhyno. "People where I work drive Honda Elements, which I think are pretty ugly." Still, he says, "Nothing draws the fire like the Aztek."

Taiwan`s Auto Conglomerates Eye Lucrative Used-car Biz

Taipei, Aug. 4, 2010 (CENS)--Eyeing lucrative business opportunities in the used-car business, both Yulon and Hotai, the top-2 carmakers in Taiwan, are increasing investments in such sector.

Justin Su, president of Hotai Motor Co. Ltd., pointed out his group now accounts for only 3% of the overall used-car market in Taiwan, implying room for expansion. This year, Su claimed, Hotai would further integrate its new-car distributors to expand Toyota`s share in also the used-car market.

In the first half, some 3324,700 used-cars saw transferred ownerships, Hotai said, up 7.7% from that in 2009. Hotai attributed the YoY increase to the increasing willingness to buy new cars due to the recovering economy. Hotai`s distributors are planning to jointly pour NT$30 million to NT$40 million to increase dealers for Toyota-certified used cars to 19 by the end of the year from 14 currently.

Fortune Motors Co., Ltd., general agent of Mitsubishis, has set up the SUM high-quality used-car sales alliance with more than 250 franchised dealers around the island. The SUM alliance was set up to provide installment loans to used-car buyers, and now contributes to 40% to 60% of its overall profits.

To keep the residual value in used Mitsubishis, China Motor Corp. under the Yulon Group that locally assembles Mitsubishis also set up a used-car distribution chain in Taiwan.

Sinjang Corp., a member of Yulon Group, is an agency, wholesaler and retailer of used cars. The company used to auction 2,000 to 3,000 used-cars per month when it monopolized domestic used-car auction business. To confront strong competition from Hotai Group, Sinjang established the SAVE certified used-car sales alliance in 2009, with 106 used-car dealers having joined, and plans to increase the number to 150 by the end of the year.

Shuen Yi Motor, another distributor of Mitsubishis, recently set up the "Car OK" used-car alliance and aims to attract at least 40 members by the end of this year.

(by Quincy Liang)

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

How to inspect a used vehicle before buying

Buying a used car can provide you with an excellent vehicle for a low price; most new cars immediately lose value as soon as they are driven off of the lot. Buying a used car can also make you the owner of someone else's nightmare. Take your time with your purchase to get the best vehicle that you can afford.

First steps:

If you are making a purchase from a car dealer ask for a vehicle history report. They should be able to provide this. Know the market before you start shopping by looking up Blue Book values and comparing advertisements in your local paper and on-line. Do some research on the Internet about the type of car you are interested in. Many times you will be able to find information about particular problems that are unique to the model or manufacturer.

Under the hood:

When checking under the hood there are many things to look for. How clean is the engine and does it show signs of oil or antifreeze leaks? If the engine has just been cleaned you may want to take a closer look, it could be a sign of problems. Check and smell the engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid and antifreeze. None of these fluids smell good but if you notice a burnt smell there is a problem.

Take some oil from the dipstick and rub it between your fingers. It should not be gritty or have metallic residue. The same applies to the antifreeze. Also check the antifreeze for any signs of oil. The brake fluid should appear fairly clear without signs of contamination.

Body and interior:

Check the body of the car for rust. Depending on the age of the car and your location some rust may be acceptable but you should check the extent of it. Check for slight differences in paint color, this can be a sign of body work that indicates the vehicle was in an accident.

The interior of the vehicle can also give you many clues about its condition. Check the odometer. Do the numbers line up or are they a bit uneven? If they are not in a straight line it is a sign of odometer tampering. Unfortunately this method does not work for digital odometers. In this case check for excessive wear on the brake and gas pedals. If they look completely worn down but the mileage is under 100,000 there is a problem.

Wheels:

Check the tires for wear. If the tire wear

10 Best Tips For Saving Money on Your Car

After you get recommendations for honest mechanics, call around to check out the prices for certain jobs. It's always smart to get a second opinion.

How about some preventative medicine? Keep your gas tank filled. This will help you avoid the gas line freezing up in cold weather. Also, driving on "fumes" allows little pieces of dirt at the bottom of your gas tank to run through the fuel lines with the last drops of gas. This debris clogs up the fuel filter and can cause carburettor damage as well.

Sometimes a problem with your car's electrical system results from a simple blown fuse. Check to see if you have any blown fuses before investing in a tow truck! Keep track of how much oil your car uses. A sudden change in oil consumption means you need to see a technician. Save your brakes by having your brake fluid changed every 30,000 miles. Check your tire pressure once a month. This simple maintenance check can add up savings at the gas pump!

Stop and go traffic causes excess wear and tear on your vehicle. Go ahead and give your car a nice twenty minute ride at 55 mph on the highway every couple weeks if you "major" in short trips.

There are other ways to save money on car expenses. Let's look at the insurance payments.

If you've budgeted for possible out-of-pocket expenses in case of a car accident, you might want to consider increasing your insurance deductible to $500. This will lower the cost of your insurance.

Talk to your insurance agent. If your car is as old as the hills, you might want to drop collision coverage to save money.

Car insurance companies offer a variety of discounts. Ask your agent if the company offers reductions for driver training courses, anti-lock brakes, car alarms, air bags, mature drivers, good students or maintaining a good driving record.

Before you purchase from a dealer, ask about the dealer's return policy, get it in writing and read it carefully. Dealers are not required by law to give used car buyers a three-day right to cancel.

Each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.10 per gallon for gas.

In most cases, using cruise control on the highway will save gas.

Replacing a clogged air filter can improve your car's gas mileage by as much as 10 percent. This isn't going to cost you an arm or leg either.

Do your homework when buying a car from an auction. Many vehicles that have been damaged by floods and hurricanes are going on the market. These won't last long – leaving you with a flood of bills. Be a little concerned if the carpet looks too new, and check carefully for signs of rust.

If you use your car for business, keep track of miles travelled so that you can use this for a tax deduction. Get more info at irs.gov.

When you consider all the ways you can save money on your current vehicle, you might be persuaded to put away the extra each month for a new car down the road!


Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Used Car Market India an Overview


Used cars have emerged as the best commuting solutions for Indian masses. The reason is very is obvious, used cars are not only easily available but fit to the budget of majority of Indian masses as well. In addition, lower interest rates and easy financing have really boosted the sector.

There is not any official statistics on the market status of the used cars in India yet. However, most of the Indian auto-marker, xperts believe that this sector has really bright future and is likely to prove advantageous for the Indian masses. As per the market trends, unorganized sector is playing key role in this sector and spreading the culture of used cars in smaller towns of India as well.

Moreover, some of the estimates provided by major car companies in India states that the used car market has registered a phenomenal growth in comparison to new cars. At top of that, some of the car financers have also echoed the estimates released by the car companies, saying that the used car sector has touched new heights in the current fiscal year. According to some media reports, the major car companies are likely to enter the potential market of cars. These companies are eying the largest middle class population, which is luckily in India.

Another factor which has boosted the used car market in the country is the high resale value of cars. Car owners are now do not hesitate in selling their cars, as they are offered decent amount of money. However, the resale value depends upon the merit of the car. Also, one can get a wide range of used cars of different models, types, colours or in any other preferences. Therefore, aspiring car owners will not have to compromise with any technical or esthetical features.

To put in, used cars fit to everyone's choices and needs, including car sellers and buyers. If you are looking forward of owning a car, try used cars!

Monday, August 2, 2010

Why To Import Used Cars Directly From Japan?


Japanese used vehicles are very popular worldwide for their quality and very affordable pricing. Cars from Japan are subjected to strict emission tests and quality control which are the main factors that encourage the sales of used cars in Japan than any other country. According to the data of a recent survey, over 100000 Japanese cars are used worldwide. No import tax and lots of bundled accessories have attracted many people around this planet towards the used Japan cars. With the huge popularity of the used Japan cars, many exporters have popped up recently. Moreover, used Japan cars can be ordered online too. With help of these online used car websites, you can get your dream car delivered to your doorsteps while you just relax in your home.

Japanese used cars are exported in a very high rate to more than 85 countries. Along with cars, Japan also exports buses, trucks and even heavy equipments like excavators. As no import tax is levied for the Japanese used vehicle, people find it more profitable to import used vehicles directly from Japan than buying them from their own country.

The Availability of spare parts

Before purchasing a used vehicle, many are really concerned about the availability of spares for the particular vehicles. In the case of used Japan cars, the spare parts are readily available in any Country. Moreover, the leading Japanese used car exporters assist the customers for buying the spare parts too. The spare parts for the used Japanese cars can also be ordered online.

Japan Auto Auction:

Japanese auto auctions are very popular worldwide. For the moment of truth, one can buy a used car in good condition for just $250.The fantastic competitive Auction Service, also facilities to make major and minor repairs, paint touch ups, customizations for the used cars. Online auto auctions have added more convenience to the import of used cars directly from Japan.

Additional Benefits

The Japanese used cars dealers stand one step ahead for their additional services

like repainting the vehicles and to retouch the small scratches in bumpers and body panels with the specialists. Also, the Japanese used car dealers can bring up the exact factory color with the art paint mixer in their paint shop. Along with the car sales, the Japanese used car sellers also supply the dismantled parts of the vehicles in cube containers of size 20ft or 40 ft. These dismantled parts are bought for dead cheap prices today and they are re-assembled into a classy car.

Summing Up

The main benefits off importing cars directly from Japan are:

Low pricing

No Import tax

Lots of bundled accessories

Great assistance buying the spare parts.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Methods for selling Used Cars

It is absolutely essential that that you make your car look presentable before initiating your selling efforts. Give the car a good water wash followed by a wax job on the car body exterior. It is also necessary to vacuum clean the inside, and gloss up the tires, and spruce up the overall appearance. If there's any burnt lights or fuses or other defective small accessories, replace them immediately. Prospective buyers will certainly feel annoyed once they see little things in bad shape. As a matter of fact, you can even add a few additional fittings to make the car look still more attractive. Please also make sure the tires are all properly inflated and the battery is in fine shape.

Prospective buyers of used cars are always apprehensive about three things - What is the mileage? Has the odometer been rolled back or tampered with? Was the car ever in a wreck at any time? It is of paramount importance that you allay the buyer's misgivings by giving them a copy of an Auto Check Vehicle Report of your car that they not only feel satisfied about the exact condition of the car but also feel convinced your mileage has not been rolled back and your car has a clean record.

There is no denying that the most powerful selling tool is your car maintenance record especially oil changes and battery check ups. Every time your car is serviced, add the service report to your car file. When people see your car maintenance records, they will be immensely pleased and would want to do business with a self- organized person like you.

Auto classifieds on the web are much more cost effective than newspapers classifieds. Instead of limiting your ad to some local people who might or might not want to buy a used car, if you advertise on the web where there will be millions of people reading and a large number of responses. Avail a web site that offers a money back guarantee in case your car does not sell within a prescribed time period. Some sites run the ad continuously for a low price until the car is sold - a benefit no newspapers will offer.

Yet another constructive suggestion is to create color flyers about your car for distributing to possible buyers. Flyers can carry more details than a classified ad. It will be excellent if your web ad carried color photos and all the important particulars of the vehicle. If the buyer complains about some scratches or stains on your car exterior, politely explain it is normal wear and tear of a used car of and that is the reason why you are not demanding the price of a new car. This however does not apply to dents and it is therefore necessary you repair the dents before your buyers inspect the car.

Never advertise your car sale till you have researched the market for your car value, created your maintenance records and figured out how you will respond to every one of buyer’s queries. The asking price is very important and if your expectations are too high, the car will never be sold. Likewise if you under-price, the prospective buyers may suspect the condition of the car and its history.